CHIANG RAI, 18 September 2020: My first encounter with Locus Native Food Lab occurred on a Thai AirAsia’s one hour flight from Bangkok to Chiang Rai.
I was sitting plonk in the middle of a group of 12 foodie urbanites who with single-minded enthusiasm were travelling to the far north town in Thailand to enjoy a marathon dinner at an exclusive restaurant.
“You have never heard of Locus Native Food Lab, and you live in Chiang Rai,” they asked incredulously. That seemed more inconceivable than travelling 800 km to sample a set dinner that sets you back at least THB1,500 per person.
They were obviously well-heeled Bangkokians ready to splurge on a food experience without the slightest idea of what the chef would present other than knowing it was fusion based on North Thailand recipes and locally sourced ingredients.
They dashed off to the waiting limousine commuter van with waves and good luck farewells. I waved back and wondered if they would be just as happy on the return journey home after their sortie into mystery dining.
It wasn’t the last time that the Chef’s Table experience and I crossed paths. I would often hear comments from happy local gourmets and Facebook posts that talked about the “fantastic” food experience rustled up at the Locus Native Food Lab.
Formerly of the Mandarin Oriental in Chiang Mai, Chef Kong settled in Chiang Rai and set up his food lab experience. No walk-ins, always the group experience; 12 people who left it up to the chef to serve up a special menu enjoyed at a leisurely place among friends.
The only drawback was that nobody appeared to know precisely the location of the unique restaurant. It didn’t upset the chef as his venture was booked solid most days throughout the high season. He relies entirely on word-of-mouth recommendations, and 90% of his clientele hails from Bangkok.
Last month, Chef Kong moved although true to form he kept a lid on the location until happy foodies posted on Facebook that his brand new restaurant had opened in the grounds of the luxurious Pa Sak Tong resort. The resort attracts the wealthy who travel from Bangkok to set up court in a huge six-bedroom luxury villa on the scale of a palace. The partnerships with the ‘Lab’ turns out to be a perfect fit. Pa Sak Tong and Kong’s food lab happen to share an interest in the same wealthy clientele pool; folk who love foodie adventures and luxury accommodation. No second thoughts, they splash out on an exclusive 11-course meal paired with four wines and are tempted to book a villa that sets you back THB36,000 per night for two guests or THB 79,000 for two nights on their next trip to Chiang Rai. (That’s a low-season bargain. Boooking.com quotes a two-night rate of THB129,186 in October.)
Lotus Native Food Lab is back on track, and if Facebook posts are worth believing, then I quote the diners who have made the journey to the doors of the food lab in its new location.
“For us, an evening with Chef Kong is like no other and promises great food, magnificently refined flavours, exquisitely beautiful presentation, and an exploratory journey into the origins and ingredients of each dish. On top of that, the conversation and the people we meet are extraordinary. The new location is amazing, with a new layout inside and a beautiful garden setting outback.”
Pa Sak Tong’s general manager, John Dubar, says the new partnership is a “wonderful combination offering guests exclusive dining experiences.”
Lotus Native Food Lab does two sittings one for the pre-booked groups mostly who wing in on flights from Bangkok (maximum 12 guests) and the second session for Pa Sak Tong guests later in the evening. Now for the reality check. When you say “I’m off to Chiang Rai for a lab meal,” you need to book two to three months upfront. Pa Sak Tong guests don’t need to worry about advance bookings.
They are staying in a luxurious resort that is undoubtedly the most exclusive venue in North Thailand for the wealthy who treasure being anonymous far away from the prying eyes of social media fanatics and celebrity watchers. Both Chef Kong and Pa Sak Tong like to keep a lid on that.
For more information on the Pa Sak Tong experience visit: www.pasaktong.com
